Frame Size (H x L): 31.5” x 38.5”
Dress Size (H x L): 20.5” x 27.5”

Offered is a patriotic dress made of thirty-eight star antique flags.  In 1876, during the centennial celebrations of American Independence, women and girls would often wear patriotic dress. These dresses—vibrant in the red, white, and blue—often featured motifs of stars and stripes, mirroring the American flag. This choice of apparel was more than just a fashion statement; it symbolized a deep sense of national pride, allowing women and girls to actively participate in the commemoration of the country's hundredth anniversary. The styles of these dresses varied, some being simple with flag-colored sashes, while others were more elaborate, adorned with layers of ruffles and star-spangled designs. For many, dressing in such symbolic attire was a way to nurture a sense of national identity, and their presence in these colorful, emblematic outfits became a striking and memorable feature of the 1876 centennial celebrations.

In the case of the dress offered herein, it is made of thirty-eight star flags (an example of which is shown in the last image).  The flags exhibit an extremely rare star pattern, in which there are larger stars arranged linearly and smaller stars arranged in a medallion, amongst the larger stars.  More specifically, pattern includes six linearly arranged larger stars in each of the first, second, fifth, and sixth rows. And it includes four linearly arranged larger stars in each of the third and fourth rows. The stars in the first row are generally canted to the 11:00 position, while the stars in the second row are alternatively, generally canted to the 1:00 position. The stars in the other rows are canted haphazardly, which adds to this flag’s folksiness.

The most interesting feature of this star arrangement, however, is the medallion of six smaller stars. Printing on cotton typically employed wooden blocks, which were hand-cut so as to leave raised surfaces bearing the desired pattern. The block used in printing this flag was originally used for printing thirty-six star flags with a linear 6-6-6-6-6-6 pattern. For convenience, this block was then recut, so that the middle four stars could be removed and replaced with the six smaller stars. Flags printed with recut blocks are quite unusual and rare, and thus highly prized by collectors.

The thirty-eight star flag represents the inclusion of Colorado to the Union. Colorado was admitted on August 1st, 1876 and this flag became official on July 4th, 1877. Presidents Hayes, Garfield, Arthur, Cleveland, and Harrison all served under this flag. Colorado became known as the “Centennial State,” a result of becoming official just twenty-eight days after the centennial. The official star count for US flags in 1876 was the thirty-seven star flag. However, it was common for flag makers to produce anticipatory flags in advance of their official date, making the thirty-eight star flag—and for historical reasons, the thirteen star flag—the most common flags flown during the centennial celebrations of 1876.

The nation’s centennial in 1876 inspired patriotism across the county and reunited its citizens. Cities of all sizes hosted parades and celebrations, and buildings and homes were canvased in red, white, and blue with flags being the primary symbol of national pride. The most notable celebration was the Centennial International Exposition in Philadelphia. In just six months, the Exhibition hosted nearly 10 million visitors, and included many extraordinary exhibits, including the introduction of the Corliss Steam Engine and Alexander Graham Bell’s telephone.

The thirty-eight star flag was official until July 4th, 1890, the time at which the forty-three star flag became official and began to represent the inclusion of North Dakota, South Dakota, Montana, Washington, and Idaho to the Union.

Conservation Process: The dress was hand sewn to cotton fabric, and both were hand sewn to a mounting board. To prevent the black dye in the cotton fabric from seeping into the dress, it was first washed in a standard wash and then in a dye setting wash. The dress is positioned behind Optium Museum Acrylic.

Frame: The dress is showcased in our Large Distressed Gold Frame.

Condition Report: As shown in the photos, there is some staining, foxing, and bleeding of red into the white. Despite this, the dress presents wonderfully.

Collectability Level: The Great – Perfect for Rising Collectors
Date of Origin: 1876
Number of Stars: 38
Associated War: The Indian Wars (1860-1890)
Associated State: Colorado